Asia, Borneo, Extreme Sports, Sabah, Travel, West Sabah

My Experiences of W.Sabah

Kota Kinabalu is the centre point of Sabah. The town itself is very small and easy to get around. Although limited tourist sights (apart from the Sabah Museum), the place really comes alive at night with its many restaurants and Karaoke bars. Stroll along the seafront passing different sung versions of classic hits, pick a gigantic colourful lobster to be grilled in the Seafood Market and munch on fresh fruit and Barbecued chicken parts (liver or heart anyone?) at the Night Market. A good restaurant and bar that hosts weekly pub quizzes is El Centro, with reasonably priced food with good drinks deals and a great atmosphere- its popular with the expat crowd.

Picking a fish Napping

Not in Kota Kinabalu but a short boat ride away, is Tunku Abdul Rahman National Park. For a speedy trip you can visit one of its many majestic islands for a 10 ringgit entrance fee. Leaving the views of KK (what the locals call Kota Kinabalu) full of fishing boats, office buildings and the towering view of Mount Kinabalu, look straight ahead at the uniquely sized islands that are little green gems on a portrait of sapphire. I visited the island of Pulau Sapi– being told it is the most beautiful, although not the best for snorkelling. The island is busy, filled with snorkellers and beginner divers, but don’t let that put you off, many of them leave in the early afternoon. Being with 4 German guys meant my thoughts of heading straight to a beach were laughed at and we trekked through the jungle that inhabited the island.

Islands off KK Pulau Sapi Pulau Sapi hidden beach

It led us up and down, through various types of vegetation and plantation, making us scratch our skin on spiky plants and trample over decayed tree trunks. Making it to Sunset Point for a break in the jungle, we stood on the cliff edge, looking out onto the horizon, a stretch of never ending light blue merging with a deep inky blue. As the wind blew on our sweaty skin we drunk the beautiful view in. Descending back into the jungle, we discovered a private beach where no other tourist had reached which seemed to be a “form of paradise”, said Paul, the youngest guy with us. Stepping away from the depths of the jungle filled with noisy insects to a calm aquamarine sea was heavenly, and I thought to myself, this is how beaches in Borneo are like- straight from the jungle. If you have the time, island hop to as many islands you can and want to see- I’ve been told its fantastic.

Taking a rest Balancing

Another activity that some tourists do, and something I signed up to many months in advance (which meant no backing out) was hiking the highest mountain in South-east Asia: Mount Kinabalu. The journey is tough. Stretched over two days you climb (not trek, or hike but climb) the oldest national park in the world. I struggled with the first day because of its makeshift steps of stones and rock which use a tremendous effort to scale- even without a heavy rucksack and a tripod in one hand. Surrounded by beautifully gnarled trees and exotic flowers, there is little else to spot for scenery and the entire journey is uphill, no variation but continuously uphill. There is no scope of views because you are in the clouds when you ascend, only passing rest stops and ravenous squirrels on your way up. Although I reached the accommodation of Laban Rata quicker than average, I had struggled.

Start of the trek

Arriving at the accommodation, the friends I made and I found out our beds were overbooked, with the the booking we had made with the respectable and prestigious tour company of: Amazing Borneo (I had booked at least 6 months ago!). We learnt we would be sleeping on a mattress after the first days endurance of hard work. As well as this, the food in our accommodation was plentiful, but poor quality and lacked any flavour, and sharing a dorm room with 14 people made our stay restless and uncomfortable. Needless to say, it was the cherry on top of the cake. (Especially as I’ve stayed in a room with 31 other people but was granted an actual bed so slept easy). Here, rest was not an option. The next day, although the toughest, was more enjoyable for me.

Top of Mt Kinabalu Sunrise Mount Kinabalu

Leaving the warm depths of my bed in exchange for the chilly blanket of darkness of night, I skipped past large groups of Asian tourists on the steps who lived by the phrase “slow and steady”, and began to scale the side of the mountain with a rope across the steep and dangerous cliff edges. Although more hazardous, I preferred it as it was more extreme, but I also felt I was actually climbing a mountain and making some progress about it. Using the stars to guide my way, and after fighting bouts of altitude sickness, I made it to the top at the same time as my friends to watch the sunrise, painting the sky an assortment of bright colours of the rainbow which peeked in and out of clouds. The landscape was craggy rock, as if something from the moon, and looking at the world below our feet we saw grass plains of fields and jungle that looked as if a magic carpet and saw the glorious stretch of sea hugging the curvy coastline.

Happy to be at Sunrise View over Mt Kinabalu

It is a magnificent sight to see and worth the exhausting endeavours you go through. However, for other backpackers, I would recommend hiking with Jungle Jack– a comfortable hostel at the Kinabalu Headquarters, where is cheaper, friendlier and more professional – my guide would continuously make me stop for his cigarette breaks and was always late. Jungle Jack is also rated number one best hostel in KK on Trip Advisor. With my two experiences of going with respectable companies (Borneo Discovery for their River Tour and Amazing Borneo), I have found the tour guides are not up to the standard you pay for and have poor quality food- so always go cheap, it will be the same standard anyway!

Happy to be at the top

Hostels in KK are bountiful and vary in price and style. I stayed in Masada backpackers for one night, whom has clean and cool rooms, great breakfasts, free internet and decent showers with soap dispensers. The staff are friendly and helpful, although the location is a little out the way. For the most part I stayed in North Borneo Cabin– cheaper from 35 ringgit to 27, where it has an excellent location, free internet and breakfast although the rooms are a little rough around the edges. However, this hostel is a good choice for real backpackers, rather than flash backpackers and has a great social balcony and living room.

Asia, Borneo, Extreme Sports, North Sabah, Sabah, Travel

My Experiences of N. Sabah

Sabah, although in the same country as Sarawak, has many subtle differences to one another through the various cultures and way of life. I started my trip in Sandakan, which is at the heart of Sarawak’s wildlife. I only used Sandakan as a stop over to get to other areas of wildlife, although Sandakan is much more than just a stopover. There is more to offer in this town richly filled with history and culture. Check out the restaurants by the harbour, the memorial camp resurrected in remembrance for those who were present in the infamous death march, and the famous literate: Agnes Keith’s house. For my short stay, I stayed at Harbourside Backpackers, which is based in a popular square with clean dorm beds, AC, free internet and free reign over a DVD collection and TV for just 28 ringgit a night.

Sabah Orang-utans Monkeying Around Stretching

I headed to Sepilok the next day, to visit the most famous orang-utan sanctuary in the world. Visitor numbers soar even higher each year, and the head count is well into its millions. Excited tourists rush off local buses, air conditioned mini vans and speedy taxis- all in anticipation to catch a glimpse at the orange haired orang-utans. And it is pretty easy to do so with Sepilok’s regimented feeding times, meaning frequent free and easy access to food for these creatures in rehabilitation. Standing amongst tourists from all over the world on a board walk in the jungle, you watch orang-utans of all shapes and sizes swing and loop, jump and dive, play and eat, whilst constantly stopping to smile a huge cheeky grin. Seeing orang-utans with hands for feet and other remarkable human characteristics, was memorizing and made me squeal with excitement.

Look at her face!

Time flies by fast and as the feeding time begins to come to a close, the most confident orang-utan looked at me with his brown tender eyes that seemed to ignite something within my soul, it was hard to say goodbye. However, human contact with these orang-utans must be kept to a bare minimum- otherwise some friendly poachers will take advantage of this relationship. Being shooed away, I moved to the baby orang-utan enclosure, which was even more amusing. Baby orang-utans chewed bananas up and spit them out in sheer delight and gluttony, or sent themselves somersaulting into springy patches of tarpaulin. A visit to Sepilok whilst in Borneo is a must do. Try check out one of the videos Sepilok shows highlighting the process of rehabilitation and conserving orang-utans for their welfare, it is both touching and endearing.

River Kinabatangan Birds by the river

Nearby to Sepilok is the Kinabatangan River, where rainforest meets river, a tropical oasis of sights and smells. If you haven’t caught a glimpse of any Proboscis monkeys in Sarawak, or visited the Labuk Bay Proboscis monkey sanctuary in Sabah, (a place where numerous monkeys are cared for and given a diet of pancakes- in exchange for tourists to take pictures). Or you enjoy boating and exploring wildlife through another medium, then I recommend visiting this river. Although, make sure you book a trip from Sandakan, where boat trips are half price. Booking mine in Kota Kinabalu meant I had paid a large amount for a two day one night trip. I do recommend this time frame for seeing the wildlife as it is just pot luck, and after the boat cruise, things do become a little bit regular, as the same animals are spotted, (although not the tour guide’s fault or your fault-but the animals!) We saw an abundance of wildlife: horn bill birds calling for a mate, a sleepy croc, silver tail monkeys picking fleas out of each member of its family, proboscis monkeys mating, many lizards and a resting snake. Spotting wild animals on either side of you whilst floating along a peaceful lake was a highlight- not the animals itself.

Monkey family Monkey Rescuing a butterfly

I splashed out- the accommodation I stayed in: Bilit Lodge, was the reason behind the costly trip and was beautiful. Monkeys swung from chandeliers in the hallway and personal cabin esque rooms were given to us. I shared the lodge with a number of retired mature Australians, which made my time there enjoyable. Looking back, there are other ways I could have spent my money, however, the river is known for being a highlight to any naturist. After going on an afternoon boat cruise, as well as an early morning one- which seemed like an epic scene out of a fishing movie as fog began to roll off the water as we sped through clouds of mist, we planted trees which I thoroughly enjoyed- and if anyone is thinking about doing it ever- do so!

Staying in a posh lodge The view outside the window

Another trip which you can do from Sandakan is a visit to Turtle Island. Here, you stay in the only accommodation on the island, sharing the place with a few others and the turtle conservation centre. You get the opportunity to see eggs in incubators hatching and being let out to sea. Although this process is not natural, it still helps push baby turtles towards a greater chance of survival. The trip is quite costly, the cheapest price I found was roughly 700 ringgit, so if you are happy to see turtles anywhere, than do so.

Building for a stronger future!

Asia, Borneo, Sarawak, Travel

My Experiences of Sarawak

My time in Borneo was short, but sweet and my time in Sarawak was the shortest. Although I have limited experiences of Sarawak, I will account and advise all the places I visited and aimed to visit.

View over Sarawak
Kuching is more commonly known as: “The City of Cats”, and it grows on you over time. At first you might be taken aback by the jumble of business’s and houses packed tightly next to one another as if sardines in a tin can, selling precisely the same thing but arranged very differently. Streets are shaped along the waterfront promenade and all seem to head to the same direction, to the emptiness that surrounds the city. After exploring, you soon realise that Kuching is tiny and there is no need to look further afield, but rather closely, along the streets and alleyways. Being a hotspot for Chinese immigrants many years ago for work, means that welcoming those you pass with “Ni Hao”, and munching on fried chicken and fried fish is more common than you expect. Wander through town passing Chinese embellished and well decorated temples and shopkeepers with rows and rows of glittering gold in front of them- only stopping for a meal at a restaurant with no name- where the owner greets you energetically with: “this is the best meal you can get for four ringgitt!”

Cat statues in Kuching IMG_0144 From here, learn more about the Chinese influx on Kuching and what it means to their culture in the Chinese Museum. I was energetically welcomed with “the only Chinese Museum in Malaysia- the only one!” Its interesting to learn about the various ethnic groups and what their trade is and how that has influenced and affected the growth of Kuching. Walk along the waterfront promenade with the vast ugly building of the Hilton Hotel on one side, and on the other: the pointy Sarawak State Assembly which looks like it is made out of origami, as well as Fort Margherita– a medieval European fort that looks out of place and odd in comparison to the sights that surround you. Walk past Padang Merdeka, marvel at the enormous ancient tree before heading to the Sarawak Museum. There are glass boxes of stuffed animals which are missable, however on the top floor, there is an exhibition based on the local tribes of Sarawak and their traditions. Here you can learn about traditional long houses and the art of mask making. Just on the other side of Padang Merdeka is Merdeka Plaza, an air conditioned shoppers paradise, which reminds me of the modern world and Asia that we are in. If your really into cats, walk to the cats column on the other side of town, and catch a cab to the cat museum- I was tempted, until a taxi driver told me in lengthy detail that the city is actually named after an old well, although everyone thinks its about cats- despite this, he tells me he has a cat.

Chinese Temple Gold shopping The government houseI stayed in Borneo Seahare Hostel, an ideal base for a backpacker whom wants to stay in Kuching or use Kuching as camp whilst exploring Sarawak. Dorm beds are 20 ringitt and the hostel is owned by a British Expat who knows the needs of travellers. Opposite the Chinese Museum, the hostel is a cosy shelter to travellers who need it.

Taxis killing time Seeing their picture takenRestaurants are aplenty in Kuching, walk along the promenade when lit up at night and pick whatever takes your fancy. I stuck to small local eateries, where food was made in open kitchens cooked to feed a mass audience, apart from Kim’s Cafe– which serves local grub at a reasonable price- check out the owner Kim and her partner’s fully body tattoos. Memorizing.

KuchingDon’t let a visit to Sarawak be restricted with solely a stay in Kuching. Take advantage of the nature that’s right on your doorstep, and really venture to see what Borneo is all about. I headed to Bako National Park by a bright red tourist bus from town. When arriving at the park, after paying a 20 ringitt entry free, hop on to a boat for 20 ringitt to take you to the park. Speeding past sleepy fisherman, you catch your breath at the approaching beauty of the park. As if a scene from Jurassic Park, a beach with jagged rocks points you to the jetty where dead naked trees jut out a spiky and bent welcome. The national park offers a vast amount of trails all at different levels of difficulty, although even the easiest trail can be a little steep and dangerous at times (not one for my parents- I’m not sure about yours!) I took the trail of T.Paku, which is the most popular trail to spot Proboscis Monkeys and leads to a beach. I saw no monkeys but a incredible ant trail which was a marvel to watch- such minute insects with little impact on the global vastness of the world and the very trail I was on, working together creating a powerful force.

Bako National Park En route to Bako Checking out the viewNot satisfied and wanting to quench my thirst for nature and wildlife even further, I headed on to the T.Pandan Kecil route, which takes you through deeper into the rainforest, up to a clearing and down the other side to see the “sea stack”. I recommend taking the Demali track and then splitting before the track to see the view titled: World’s End. Although a tough ascent with only ropes to support your weight and dangerous steps at times, the view is worth it. Returning to camp and passing the accommodation, I spotted what I had been searching for, the monkeys, jumping from branch to branch above me. A wonderful and amusing sight to see (those noses are ridiculous). I was told by others that staying a night there, you are able to see a much larger amount of wildlife, and 15 ringitt a night is a reasonable price to stay there. This means you have more time to do the trails, rest on empty beaches and you can even go on a night trail spotting flying lemars- although I was told one night stay is enough.

Growth on the river The beach on Bako Dinner for CaterpillarsI really wanted to take a trip on the Batang Rejang from Sibu to Bintulu– which if you have the time, is an interesting way of travelling the country. However, time restrictions failed me. Instead of passing the traditional long houses and tribal life that I’m sure all tourists want to catch a glimpse of, I’m afraid the present day has influenced all, with modernised long houses’s made out of bricks with four wheel cars in the driveway, rather than made out of sticks and boats out front. If wanting to see authentic long houses, a trip to Annah Rais Long houses is advised, as here you can see and explore what a traditional long house looks like, I have also heard you are able to stay at one as well.

View point Even more sweaty but feeling free! Jungle Ant walking